Published on October 5th, 2015 | by Jos Roder0
ABS Be Gone
No, this is not a reverse ab workout machine to remove those pesky chiseled abs you have sculpted over the years to scrub your washing on! This, rather, is a story of removing the ABS unit from your S or R chassis machine.
Why would you want to do this I hear you ask?
As my car is a dedicated race car, I wanted to remove the ABS unit and the associated lines for aesthetic, weight saving and access reasons. Importantly I also wanted something totally plug and play that required no additional parts or custom modification.
If your car is still intended for road use, it is not advisable to be removing a factory ABS offering for safety reasons, plus it could be illegal, so check your local road laws.
After consulting the inter webs, it seemed there was only a couple of local options offering an ABS Delete kit for S chassis machines.
After having a look a bit closer at GKTech’s offering, it seemed to be the choice to make and priced at only $149 + postage, which seemed like fair value to me. GKTech is an Australian company and have been producing some great local products for S and R chassis Nissan’s since 2003.
The kit itself consisted of everything you need to complete the ABS delete. I could see the lines and fittings are of great quality, being HEL stainless steel braided and teflon coated. The fittings were the correct thread and pitch and are designed to the correct angles for the kit specific to your vehicle.
Tools wise, you really only need some spanners! Time wise, GKTech indicate 30 minutes, however that might be slightly optimistic, considering with two people our time to change over the lines was 90 minutes + the brake bleed time.
The two line connections need to be removed from the brake master cylinder. You will find another connection that needs to be removed lower down on the drivers side firewall that joins the rear brake line.
Operation! Don’t touch the sides. If you don’t have a special ring spanner for this, once you get the master cylinder lines off you can have fun feeding the spanner down to the other end of the connection! Using the open ended spanner can round the edges of the connections as they are quite tight, hence we went to the effort of getting the ring spacer down to the rear line connection.
Unfortunately the kit didn’t come with a simple installation diagram, which for us would have proved quite useful. Alas, after some head scratching, internet searching and then some test fitting we eventually figured it all out. I have included a diagram above that hopefully assists others with the install.
You can then feed the long line that heads across to the passenger side front brake along the top of the firewall using the included locator clips or feed it inside the firewall through a grommet and back out the other side for a cleaner look.
Once you have all the lines connected, you can bleed the brake system. Refer to google if you are not sure how to do this. After bleeding each brake, give a few extra pumps and check you have the lines up tightly and there is no leaking.
I’m not sure if anyone has ever weighed the unit and all the lines previously, however as a bit of a weight loss nerd, I was keen to see how much the delete kit saved.
Drum roll….. 4kg. That won’t set the world on fire by itself, but it all adds up and any weight loss is a win in my book!
As you can see, with the ABS delete kit, the engine bay looks a lot cleaner. Importantly, access to the dump pipe area is also made easier as well.
All in all, the kit was as advertised. A total plug and play quality ABS delete kit.